Traditional sewing patterns use markings, such as notches, instead of words to identify important points on the pattern. In order to keep our sewing patterns legible and manageable, we do this as well. When the bust, waist, or hip are not easily identified by style features, such as a dart or a seam, there is often a notch on the side seam to indicate where they are. In the absence of a notch, there is usually a description of where they are located noted in the measurement charts in the instructions.
Regretfully, some of our older patterns do not have this information. In those cases, use the below information to help find these points of measure.
Bust:
- At the bust dart if there is one
- In garments meant for woven fabrics, it is usually approximately 1” below the armhole.
- In garments meant for knit fabrics, it can be 1 – 3” below the armhole, depending upon how high the armhole is meant to be. Looking at the product photos on the website can be helpful in determining this.
Apex:
We do not mark the apex on our patterns because it is changes based on the wearer and even what undergarment the wearer has on. In general, if there is a dart, it points to the apex. We recommend holding the pattern piece up to your body, keeping in mind seam allowances at the side and shoulder seams, and marking the apex or a 1-2” radius approximately around it. This should be sufficient for making bust adjustments. If the garment has princess seams, we recommend making bust adjustments there by increasing or decreasing the curves built into the bust at the princess seam.
Waist:
At the narrowest point. If there isn’t a narrow point in the silhouette, for example if the side seam is straight or an A-line, then it doesn’t matter. Consider the overall silhouette when deciding whether to alter the waist.
Hip:
At the widest point. If there isn’t a widest point in the silhouette, for example if the side seam is straight or A-line, then it doesn’t matter. Consider the overall silhouette when deciding whether to alter the hip.